After bats and more bats, for our last 2 days in Battambang, Cambodia, we learned from the locals. First, for a pleasant surprise. Before dinner we biked down to the White Elephant Pagoda. These buddhists really like their carvings. We decided to sit in the grounds of the adjacent school where we saw several young monks. One called over to ask whether we were French. American we responded and then we asked if we could come over to talk. They were very welcoming, particularly since they were about to enter an English class.
Mike explaining the poem “Rain”
The monks and ourselves had many questions. They showed us their English text which had some interesting units. The health unit had 2 sections, one on sleep and one on laughter. Another unit was on food. Again, 2 sections: chocolate and coffee! The unit on people highlighted Tiger Woods (a golfer, whom we knew) and Amy van Dyken (a swimmer, whom we didn’t know). And we explained to them a poem titled “Rain” which had lines like “it licks the window panes.” No, there is no moral to this poem, just metaphor without naming the subject. One monk asked tentatively if it is culturally incorrect to ask a westerner his or her age. And we just blurted out that we were both 58, but also explained that we were already in conversation and so such a question gave no offence to us.
We all practiced the unit on health and there was a lot of laughter. We also explained that, like them, we prayed for world peace and that we were members of a religious group that sits in silence and have been doing so for 350 years. We recognized in one another kindred spirits.
This same day began with a planned 23 km cycle tour of some surrounding communities led by Sam, a local who seemed to know everyone. We visited families who are low on the economic totem and, through Sam’s initiative, we were transferring a little of our wealth to these locals.
First came the making of rice paper for spring rolls. Except when it rains, which means the paper cannot dry, this small family produces at least 2500 papers per day. It is a labor intensive cottage industry, yielding perhaps an income of around $20 per day.
Rice papers used for spring rolls drying in the sun
And of course everyone in our little group of 6 had to try (link to video).
From the making of rice paper, it was on to sun-dried banana strips (link to video). And of course we all had to try that too (link to video).
Next was a snack of rice noodle soup. With a little prompting, Sam explained that the young women serving was the oldest daughter in the family, that her grandmother had died the previous week, and that her own needs were laid aside so that she could help provide for her family. The poverty trap was much in evidence.
Onward to the distilling of 40% proof rice wine. It was very smooth and burned all the way down.
Then on to the very smelly fish industry that manufactured fish paste (amok), fermenting it over 2 or 3 years. I must say this was not an appetizing site. We did not stay long.
The best was left for last and that was the making of bamboo sticky rice. After explaining the production, which involves slow cooking the bamboo stuffed with rice, black beans, salt and sugar, we each had a taste. But first you have to crack the bamboo shell, so that you can then peel it back, exposing the rice inside. Very sticky and very yummy. We bought extra for our afternoon snack.
And so to our last experience of Battambang: taking a Khmer morning cooking class. We began by going to the local market for ingredients, guided by Roh. He asked if of our group were vegetarian and no one answered in the affirmative. Roh continued to say vegetarianism was not part of khmer culture. They eat anything and everything from frogs and snakes to insects and grubs. The local market was awash with produce as some of these pics show. If you are not going to eat the meat you buy that day, then you buy it live; it is to be eater that day, then it is slaughtered on the spot. No refrigeration at home.
Scroll over pics for captions
In our class and with the help of Toot, we made spring rolls, using the rice paper we may have seen being made yesterday, and a peanut dipping sauce; fish amok (a steamed fish curry served in a banana leaf bowl); beef lok lak (marinated stir-fried beef); and banana tapioca pudding with coconut milk. Various pics and videos follow. Everything we made we ate for lunch. After a brief taste, we laid the amok to one side. Everything else went down well and we came away with a small book of recipes. So perhaps when we get home, we might cook Khmer for you!
Video of the class using mortar and pestle to blend the herbs to make amok curry paste.
Green Edges 
Pingback: Seeing More of Cambodia | Green Edges