When we arrived 9 months ago, it did not take long to recognize the extent to which World War I was a defining moment for the country of New Zealand. Memorials to the fallen dot each town, remembering that 10% of the young men who went to war did not return, a higher percentage than any other country, including Britain, France, and Germany. This fact is seared into the collective memory.
The losses began at Gallipoli in 1915 and yesterday we visited a stark and sobering exhibition at the Te Papa Museum that detailed that debacle through the lives of specific servicemen — a doctor, a nurse, a private, a sergeant; some who survived, others who did not. The exhibit took us on a walk through these lives, each introduced by a very life-like, yet larger than life (x 2.4), model of the person. (More about the giants.) The walk was accompanied by sonorous music overlaid by words of the fallen from letters sent home. It all created a powerful atmosphere.
In addition to giving a frightening realistic look at the conditions these people fought under (those who survived to fight in France thought conditions were much better there!), the exhibit also shared the pride that the Maori had in their contingent. Gallipoli was the first time the Maori were allowed to be in the front lines, rather than playing a supporting role. While detesting war, we can understand why these young men preferred to fight rather than accept prejudice and a diminished role in society at home.
At the time, World War I was described as the war to end all wars (H.G. Wells). But of course that has not been the case. The local memorials here, although originally built to honor the dead of WWI, now testify to the participation of kiwis in Samoa, World War II, Korea, Malaysia, Vietnam, Papua New Guinea, and others.
For such a small country, out on a limb in the southern hemisphere, it is sobering how it has willingly been drawn into one conflict after another. We have heard talk among peaceniks here of making New Zealand and the pacifica islands a demilitarized zone, akin to Costa Rica in Central America. We can easily unite with such a vision. Some think that the numbers of Quakers are in decline here because many of the causes for which they have been advocates have been won. Advocating for a demilitarized New Zealand while acknowledging and not disparaging its history would surely be a worthy cause.
P.S. Our good friend Jacob reminded us of the following, “the most powerful anti-war song ever written.”
Green Edges 